Chanel Sycomore (2008)

Mid-October in Michigan. The sun is obscured by a canvas of stone-gray clouds, but the ground is a chiaroscuro of deep scarlet, vibrant yellow, and fast fading green. An A-frame cottage on a now-sleepy inland lake. A ten-year-old boy lives in his imagination but is otherwise occupied in helping his parents and grandparents collect the thick carpet of fallen leaves. Oaks are the dominant species here, but a magnificent red maple holds sway between cottage and lake, its remaining foliage having an almost wine-like opacity.

The boy’s grandfather, affectionately called “Pa”, transfers the collected bounty via wheelbarrow to a small garden on the property with the intent of a bonfire. But dampness from the soil and the residual sap of leaves, twigs, and stalks poses an initial challenge. Once the vegetation begins to smolder, a semi-sweet smoke diffuses through the dry autumn air and perfumes this Midwestern idyll. That perfume is Sycomore.

The name Chanel inspires a wide range of visceral reactions for perfume hobbyists. Some would highlight the undeniable influence of mid-20th century releases from the house. Others may decry the apparent populism of the brand as their department store offerings have increasingly abandoned Chanel’s couture origins.

With the premiere of the Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection in 2007, Chanel reaffirmed its status as a legendary house and signaled that its commitment to luxe perfumery wasn’t yet forgotten. The collection included both existing Chanel scents and several new ones – curated by the dream team of in-house Chanel perfumer Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake (who developed almost the entirety of the Serge Lutens line). Interestingly, the fragrances were released in eau de toilette (EdT) concentration, at a time when niche and designer houses alike were trending toward more potent eau de parfum (EdP) releases. I’d argue that the EdT fragrances mirrored the subtle sophistication often associated with the Chanel brand. Regardless of the motive, these luxe perfumes sat at the top of Chanel’s fragrance hierarchy – and also at the top of many perfume wishlists. The Les Exclusifs collection has expanded in the years since, and now includes 16 fragrances.

Sycomore, officially released in 2008, is a vetiver-dominant fragrance. The rooted, prickly, soil-infused essence of the perennial grass provides the spine of the perfume. I’ve always found vetiver to lay near the meeting point of an herbal aroma and a woody note. It is comforting, grounding, terrestrial. The Haitian-sourced vetiver in Sycomore is characteristically dry, but supple as well. And whereas vetiver can overwhelm fragrance notes with less gravitas, it finds impeccable balance in Sycomore.

The opening of the fragrance is gently lifted by Chanel’s venerable aldehydes – plush, powdery, sweet. They are an amuse bouche that quickly gives way to the main course of arid vetiver and lush sandalwood. I’d suggest that these partners carry almost equal weight in Sycomore, making it difficult to determine where one ends and the other begins. There is a continuous tension between the dry and creamy notes that never fully resolves. And in the shifting balance, one can nearly discern the illusion of menthol or eucalyptus. This illusion is sustained with the addition of an elusive evergreen note in Sycomore – perhaps cypress, juniper, or even fir – that floats at a distance. Woven throughout the fragrance is a botanic smokiness which underlines the autumnal feel of the final product. This isn’t wood smoke or incense, but rather something more akin to the aroma of a neglected cigar humidor and the anticipation of burnt tobacco. This smoky mirage is admittedly a mystery to me. Magic itself.

In early 2016, Chanel indicated it would transition the entirety of the Les Exclusifs collection from EdT concentration to EdP. Anxiety among fans was palpable, since a change in concentration is often coupled with a change in formulation. Several perfumes in the Les Exclusifs collection seem to have made the transition unscathed, though others were lobotomized including my beloved Sycomore. That which is presently available from Chanel is no longer reflective of the thoughts shared above. This updated "Sycomore" still smells of dense, high-quality vetiver. But the wings of the true Sycomore have been clipped - there is very little of the airy smokiness throughout, and not enough of the creamy sandalwood in the base. Abridged as well are the lively aldehydes that gave Sycomore its glow. What remains is essentially a $300 version of Guerlain's Vetiver or Lalique's Encre Noire. It feels like a renovation gone wrong – the skeleton is intact, but that frame is hollow and incomplete. Sycomore could only have been birthed from memory, and now it is a memory.

My bottle of Sycomore is reserved for special occasions. Perhaps that’s appropriate, as this is a truly special fragrance. Every drop is used thoughtfully and it serves to remind that all things are fleeting.  

I can feel the chill air. Winter can’t be far off. Pa, the fire is almost out now…