Heeley Menthe Fraiche (2006)
Potomac Park in April. A woman in pure white suiting. Her choice of attire cleverly mirrors the pale cherry blossoms strewn along the tidal basin. One might think this is merely an extended lunch break, though she certainly doesn’t give the impression of a government official or a corporate lobbyist. A designer? An architect? This is DC, not New York or Paris.
There’s just enough humidity in the air to diffuse the perfume of the flowering trees and shrubs. A sanguine gentleman plays jazz standards on an antique trumpet, the slightly shrill tone a melancholy contrast to the warm breeze that flows down the numbered streets. But the park is otherwise quite serene – a welcome respite from the machinations of the city.
There are benches set periodically along the path, though she dare not sit for fear of tarnishing her otherwise immaculate attire. A stroll through the park clears the fog that might otherwise stifle creativity. If the atmosphere of spring could be captured, it may well feel like this.
Englishman James Heeley makes elegant, subtle perfumes. His Sel Marin is the bottled expression of a northern seaside town – a salty breeze with hints of algae and weathered wood. Cardinal is the illusion of a young priest who has just celebrated a funeral mass. Menthe Fraiche is his essay on peppermint and spearmint. Mint perfumes are few and far between, and not many manage to capture the herbal bite of freshly crushed mint leaves. It has been reported that the aroma chemicals in mint are volatile, and thus difficult to sustain. My chemistry skills are lacking, so I’ll have to trust the experts on that one. Guerlain’s Herba Fresca and Cartier’s Roadster both include legible mint notes, but neither feels centered on the mint itself. Accordingly, Menthe Fraiche is a welcome surprise – a truly mint-centric perfume.
Menthe Fraiche opens with the suggestion of bergamot, but quickly transitions to its central theme. This fragrance, to me, is almost a perfect olfactory representation of mint tea on ice. It is both cooling (the menthol effect inherent in mint) and green (like dewy grass or fresh green tea leaves). It puts the “fresh” in “refreshment”. As the perfume fades, it becomes increasingly soft and green, almost akin to the smell of freshly cut grass. There is a phantom kiss of violets or lavender in the mix, though the floral aspect of the fragrance is very mild. There’s not much else to convey, and Menthe Fraiche could be described as the ultimate minimalist perfume. Like most of the Heeley fragrances, it clearly prizes restraint above all other virtues.
Mint is often associated with toothpaste, shampoo, chewing gum, and other personal care products. It has come to represent freshness – we use its bright aroma to project cleanliness and a sense of hygiene to those around us. While I do not find Menthe Fraiche to be redolent of dental care products, it has the crispness of a starched white shirt. This analogy might suggest that Menthe Fraiche is a formal scent. On the contrary, this is a perfect casual scent that can be a welcome companion on a trip to the museum or for lunch on the patio of your preferred café. It’s undoubtedly the most appealing and authentic mint fragrance I’ve encountered, but it seems maintaining that authenticity comes at a cost: this perfume is ephemeral in the extreme. I’ve occasionally resorted to carrying a small decant with me for easy reapplication throughout the day.
If you are inclined to seek out fragrances that whisper rather than shout, the entire Heeley line should pique your interest. I tend to favor perfumes that are somewhat more assertive but Menthe Fraiche is beautifully uncluttered, perfect for days when clarity is your pursuit.